The RCMP Heritage Centre: Fun And Reflection At Canada’s Most Fascinating Police Museum

Explore the triumphs and struggles of Canada’s iconic Mounties at the RCMP Heritage Centre in Regina. Dive deep into the force’s 150-year history, from the legendary Sam Steele to modern advancements.

Aerial photo of the RCMP Heritage Centre in Regina, Saskatchewan
Aerial photo of the RCMP Heritage Centre in Regina, Saskatchewan – Photo credit: RCMP Heritage Centre

Canada’s famed Mounties are one of Canada’s most iconic symbols. The romantic image of these crimson-clad lawmen riding their trusty steeds across endless Canadian frontier as they valiantly work to ensure law and order across the great prairies and the untamed north.

There is, perhaps, no symbol of this 150-year-old police force that is more proud than the noble Sam Steele. His hard gaze and handlebar moustache was the unofficial image of the RCMP for decades. His exploits showed that the RCMP were more than just lawmen. They were explorers, trackers, diplomats, and veterans.

But the history of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police is more than just the romance of the frontier. It’s long and fraught with controversy, bravery, and adventure. Since 1886, all RCMP recruits have been trained at the organization’s facility in Regina, Saskatchewan. In 2007, a private organization opened one of the city’s most popular attractions, the RCMP Heritage Centre, where I had the opportunity to dive into the history of the crimson crew.

It All Began At Cypress Hills

Mannequin in RCMP clothing against a red wall below a mounted bison head.
Entrance to the RCMP Heritage Centre – Photo credit: Kevin Wagar

The groundwork for the Royal Canadian Mounted Police began with the confederacy in 1867 when the Dominion Police Force was tasked with guarding Canada’s new parliament buildings in Ottawa.

In November 1873, a group of American whisky traders and wolf hunters whose horses had wandered away at night because they foolishly left their horses untied led to what has been dubbed the “Cypress Hills Massacre,” where more than 20 men, women, and children from the Cree Nation were murdered and a village of more than 20 lodges was scattered, leading many to perish from the elements.

On August 30, 1873, an order was signed, and 150 recruits gathered at Lower Fort Garry near Winnipeg, Manitoba, to begin training for the brand new North West Mounted Police.

By the following summer, 300 recruits, employing many First Nations and Métis scouts and guides, marched west, setting up outposts and detachments along the way.

The RCMP Heritage Centre acts both as a chronicle of the history of Canada’s national police force and as a place of reconciliation, acknowledging some of the NWMP and RCMP ghosts, especially those surrounding Indigenous People in Canada.

The museum celebrates the organization’s highs while pausing to reflect on its many past and current failures, especially those involving Indigenous persons.

The Northwest Mounted Police and its later iteration, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, have become one of Canada’s everlasting symbols. They are the face of our country’s law enforcement and a powerful representation of all of this young country’s successes and hardships.

The Heritage Centre offered a fun, informative, educational, and reflective glimpse into the nation’s police force. After visiting the Canadian Museum of Human Rights while exploring Winnipeg, Manitoba, my expectations for this museum were high.

And it delivered.

The RCMP Heritage Centre

Different modes of transportation used by the RCMP
Different modes of transportation used by the RCMP – Photo credit: Kevin Wagar

As I walked into the heritage centre, it was hard not to be wowed by the surroundings as well as the building itself. The sweeping stone building is located adjacent to both the RCMP Academy and the police force’s Saskatchewan headquarters on the edge of the province’s capital city.

The layout was designed by Arthur Erickson, the same architect who crafted the Canadian Embassy in Washington, D.C. The design invokes the silhouette of a riding saddle, a seeming nod to the RCMP’s equestrian heritage.

On the grounds outside are a garden and a topiary cut to resemble a mounted officer. Sadly, it hadn’t yet bloomed in the early summer that I visited, but I could picture the rich greens and colours that would soon bring the artwork into bloom.

Inside, I was taken aback by the breadth of the exhibits. They succeeded in, not just exploring the history of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, but also offered a deep examination of some of the forces greatest failures, especially those involving Indigenous Peoples in Canada.

A Walk Through Dark And Light

A woman looks over a map of the different Indigenous treaties across Canada.
Jodi Holliday looks over a map of the different Indigenous treaties across Canada – Photo credit: Kevin Wagar

As I entered the exhibit gallery, I was immediately brought back 150 years to the year of the Cypress Hills Massacre. It was hard not to be humbled as I walked through the history of the RCMP, from its noble beginnings to its first controversy in 1885 when the force hung Métis leader Louis Riel at their headquarters, just a short distance from where the museum currently sits.

As I continued my stroll through the first gallery, I read about how the RCMP was among the first Canadian government organizations to employ Indigenous People as scouts, guides, and interpreters but also played a major role in the enforcement of Canada’s Indian Act, cultural genocide that targeted much of the First Nation, Innu, Inuit, and Métis population within the country.

But there were many points of light in the exhibit. While much of Canada’s law-enforcement had many murky moral failures, the RCMP has made huge strides to reconcile with them and pave a path that includes all residents of the country, especially those who were here long before the rest of us.

As the timeline extends to our modern era, I learned of cultural programs, Aboriginal initiatives, the inclusion of women and minorities in the RCMP ranks, and many steps that have been taken to turn this historic force and transform into a modern, world-class agency that serves all of the people in Canada.

Part of this initiative is on display in special exhibits at the museum. During my visit, a massive floor map outlining all of the treaties that have been signed with the Indigenous population laying out rights and responsibilities for both the communities and the government.

The Exploits of Sam Steele

Historic artifacts line the walls of the RCMP Heritage Centre
Historic artifacts line the walls of the RCMP Heritage Centre – Photo credit: Kevin Wagar

While much of the younger generation hasn’t grown up with stories of Sam Steele, many older Canadians grew up on stories of his heroic adventures in the Northwest Mounted Police.

Sam Steele led the force’s integral “March West,” the police force’s first push to suppress rebellion, banditry, and enforce Canada’s massive border with the United States. Among his actions were involvement in Riel’s North West Rebellion, policing the Canadian Pacific Railway, and policing the Yukon during the gold rush around Dawson City.

Steele’s uniform is on display at the museum along with many artifacts from his exploits as well as important items from the history of the force.

Family Friendly Fun

A murder mystery game at the RCMP Heritage Centre
A murder mystery game at the RCMP Heritage Centre – Photo credit: Kevin Wagar

The RCMP Heritage Centre doesn’t shy away from the force’s many controversies, but it does so in an approachable and introspective way that most visitors will appreciate. There is even a large area that is set aside for younger visitors.

Families can learn about the life of an RCMP recruit, try on RCMP uniforms, and even try out a driving simulator (although that exhibit is a bit dated by today’s standards).

One of my personal favourite experiences was the showcase of transportation through the years. Initially, the RCMP relied on horses and dogsleds, but through its 150 years of life, those tools have modernized into snowmobiles, motorcycles, and cars, and several historic vehicles and sleds are there to explore.

One of the best interactive exhibits is in a side room of the main hall. There, we were able to walk through a crime scene, identify clues, and test out forensic techniques in an effort to solve a crime. It was a fascinating, engaging, and interactive walkthrough that showed the full spectrum of an investigation.

A Final Take On The RCMP Heritage Centre

The RCMP Heritage Centre is one of Regina’s top attractions, and it’s a fascinating, fun, and introspective look at Canada’s national police force.

Those visiting between Tuesday and Friday between 11:00 am-1:00 pm can take part in a trolley tour of the nearby RCMP Depot, where every one of the force’s cadets goes through their basic training. You’ll have the chance to see the Sergeant Major’s Parade, where you’ll witness the incredible dismounted cavalry drill by real Cadets.

On June 30th and July 1st, don’t miss the Sunset Ceremony, which includes performances by the RCMP Cadet Choir, marching drills, and parades.

Across the road is a serene art installation dedicated to the many Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls. A stone has been placed for every soul that has fallen victim, and guests are invited to bring their own stone to commemorate a loved one. However, please do not move any of the stones that are already in place.

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Disclosure: I was a guest of Tourism Saskatchewan during my visit to the RCMP Heritage Centre. All opinions remain my own.

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