The Manito Ahbee Powwow in Winnipeg, Manitoba, is an annual celebration of Indigenous culture. In this article, Hans Tammemagi explores the vibrant dances, powerful drumming, and rich traditions that make the Manito Ahbee Powwow a must-see event, highlighting its role in preserving and celebrating Indigenous heritage.
Why are Powwows so captivating? To find out, I visited Winnipeg, Manitoba, a hotbed of Indigenous culture and home to the Manito Ahbee Powwow. It has been held annually for 19 years over the Victoria Day weekend in May on Treaty No. 1 Territory on the ancestral and current-day lands of the Anishinaabek (Ojibway), Nehiyaw (Cree), Anishininew (Oji-Cree), Dakota, and Denesuline Peoples, which is also the heartland of the Métis Nation.
I sat among a mass of spectators at the Manito Ahbee Powwow, one of the largest in Canada, attracting more than 17,000 attendees over three days. I was overwhelmed by the opening Grand Entrance when about 1,000 participants, all bedecked in feathers, beads, rattles, bustles, paint and buckskin, crowded into and danced around the stadium to the thunderous beat of drums, forming a frenzied, vivid kaleidoscope of sound and colour.
Premier Wab Kinew Shines in the Chicken Dance
After the excitement of the Grand Entrance, the dancing and drumming competitions began. The arena was crowded, and I quickly learned that the Powwow is a spectacular expression of Indigenous heritage and a vibrant display of storytelling, song, and dance in traditional regalia.
Best of all, a notable dancer was present. Manitoba Premier Wab Kinew, the only Indigenous provincial leader in Canada, showed off his footwork in the energetic Chicken Dance. He looked outstanding in his regalia while demonstrating his pride in Manitoba and his Native heritage. He announced he was sponsoring the Chicken Dance for the next four years, the prize including a fancy belt.
The attendees were thrilled to see their premier dancing. Katherine Strongwind, the festival’s marketing and communications director, summed it up well, saying, “It’s really important for young people to see that you can be successful and still be traditional and still be a dancer and be part of this wonderful community.”
Everyone was smiling and happy. From tiny tots to old veterans, everyone competed in the jingle, fancy, traditional or grass dance and revelled in it. A young dancer told me, “I love coming here because it’s fun. It’s fun to dance. It’s fun to meet friends again.” I could barely hear her over the singing and pounding drumbeats that throbbed all around us. And there’s much more: As part of the Powwow, there is an Indian Horse Relay, a Tipi Raising Competition, Metis fiddling and jigging and more.
The powwow was incredibly colourful because, amazingly, of the more than a thousand regalia, no two were identical. All were handmade, usually by the participants or close relatives. I chatted with Kasen Street of the Spirit Lake Nation in North Dakota, who was chosen as the Head Man Dancer of the Powwow. He vigorously participated in many dances and told me that he trained five days each week to maintain his athletic stamina.
Wearing a striking outfit mostly in pale blue with highlights of whites and reds with a formidable bustle of eagle feathers and a rouche headdress of porcupine quills with feathers at the back and beads in front, he said. “I love the whole regalia, how it all comes together. Working on my regalia is a lifetime commitment; my family and friends make the most of it. I wear it when I go to about 15 powwows each year.”
Red River Exhibition Park: The Dynamic Setting of Manito Ahbee Powwow
The powwow took place at the Red River Exhibition Park with the main dances held in Exhibition Place, an arena-like building with bleachers for the spectators and the large numbers resting between dances. In addition, there is a large one-story building where about 120 vendors sold everything from Native hats to jewellery to regalia components like beaded vests, bells and rouches.
There was also an outdoor stage, a nearby oval race track where the Indian Horse Relay thundered around, and an immense parking lot crammed with cars with many dancers changing into their regalia from the trunks. In Exhibition Place, feathered headdresses were hung on every protrusion, including the bleachers. A tipi stood outside and was the focus for smudging and music. People wandered about in partial or full regalia, either going to or coming from different dance competitions. Along the pathways were stands and food trucks selling delicious Bannock, Indian pizza and more.
A surprise to me was the importance of drumming. Not only did 18 drum groups compete for the top prize of $12,000, but they also provided the driving beat for all the dances. Their energy and rhythm were astounding. I especially enjoyed Showtime from the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation and the Sacred Black Hills of South Dakota, one of the best drum groups in North America.
Nine men dressed in civilian clothes except one in regalia (he was also competing in dancing) sat around a metre-wide leather drum and pounded it with drumsticks while singing at maximum intensity in their native language. The beat was powerful and mesmerizing and dominated the stadium, making you want to dance, dance, dance.
Young Talent Shines in Junior Fancy Dance
After the Junior Boys (age 6 to 12) Fancy Dance, I met the first-place winner, who received $200. (The prize money is generously distributed.) He had an infectious smile, and although he was only a junior, he was already a seasoned dancer. His regalia was striking and elaborate with the two bustles behind him, each afloat with bright green ribbons, a fancy rouche on his head and everything covered in intricate beadwork. “I love dancing; it brings joy,” he said shyly. “I dance for the elders, for the Creator and for fun.” He wasn’t alone, for many other young children, all dressed in traditional regalia competed. Even the very smallest, barely able to walk, wandered happily in the midst of dances, trying to imitate their larger relatives.
I was beginning to understand the philosophy behind powwows. Everybody participates! Everyone dances, from young to old, even the premier of the province! The regalia, which are very elaborate and intricate, are made by the dancers themselves or by close relatives. Nothing is store-bought. What a refreshing contrast to us non-natives, who seem to have become spectators to life. Powwows not only preserve Native culture but are also immensely satisfying. They are a time for Indigenous People to gather, sing, dance, feast, pray, renew old friendships and make new ones.
Driving away, I felt the mystery of powwows had been revealed. They are fabulous events that feature culture, participation, friendship and a lot of fun! We non-natives have much to learn.
Hans’ writing is eclectic including travel, environment, Indigenous culture and things quirky. He has penned 10 books including one national best seller. Hans writes for Canadian Geographic, Westworld, Ensemble, Zoomer, British Columbia magazine, Explore, Northwest Travel, Canada’s History, the Globe and Mail and the Vancouver Sun. A member of the Society of Environmental Journalists and former adjunct professor, he has a strong affinity for the environment around us. He lives in the Gulf Islands where he enjoys kayaking and photography.