Discover the pivotal role of Rocky Mountain House in Canada’s fur trade history. Explore the National Historic Site, sleep in a tipi, and uncover Indigenous and Métis heritage in this surprising Alberta gem.
To truly understand Canadian history, one must understand the fur trade and how it shaped the country’s economy, relationships, and even its geography. One of my favourite Canadian authors, Peter C. Newman, brilliantly chronicled a significant portion of this history in his Company of Adventurers series, which I’ve enjoyed more than once.
There are many places across Canada where you can still explore the subject, including Fort William Historical Park in Thunder Bay, Fort Edmonton Park, and Lower Fort Garry just outside Winnipeg, and I was pleased to discover yet another such gem on a recent trip to Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site.
I knew very little about Rocky Mountain House prior to planning my visit, and I did have some preconceptions as well. I thought I had heard that it was halfway between Banff and Jasper, so I figured it was a cool fort or maybe a village tucked in between the two mountain towns of the Canadian Rockies.
As it turns out, Rocky Mountain House is a small town in west-central Alberta, about 77 kilometres to the west of Red Deer in the foothills of Alberta. And then there’s Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site, the preserved fur trading post where you can explore reconstructed buildings and interactive exhibits.
Perhaps you already knew all this, but just in case, I hope this helps you avoid the confusion I had!
And while Rocky Mountain House wasn’t what I imagined, that actually turned out to be a good thing. The geographical beauty there is different, but no less stunning than the region between Banff and Jasper. Instead of being in the shadow of mountain peaks, the town and the site, which are about three kilometres from the centre of town, are in a wide open landscape — big skies, beautiful forests, and serene prairies.
What surprised me most, though, wasn’t just the natural beauty — it was the lesson in Canadian history we enjoyed during our visit. Oh, and sleeping in a teepee! That was actually what initially piqued my interest in the place.
With that in mind, here’s a look at things to see and do in and around the town and historic site, along with a few half-day or full-day trips in the area:
Things to See and Do at Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site
History 101
Established in 1799 along the North Saskatchewan River, Rocky Mountain House was a key fur trading post for both the Hudson Bay Company and the North West Company. The North West Company’s post also served as a base for British explorer David Thompson.
Often referred to as “the greatest land geographer who ever lived,” Thompson walked or paddled 80,000 km or more in his life, mapping out most of western Canada. The site was strategically located for Canada’s booming fur trade, facilitating the exchange of goods such as tea, guns, and beads for furs and food from Indigenous Peoples. The last fort was abandoned in 1875.
Unique Accommodations
Though I had visited tipis before, sleeping in one was a unique experience. Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site offers four tipis, each with comfortable sleeping pads. I travelled to the site with my partner and two of her children, who were equally excited about sleeping in a tipi.
Despite the scorching sun, they refused to move to a shaded tent. As the sun set, the air cooled, and we had a lovely sleep. We also spent a couple of nights in a Métis-style trapper tent, equipped with comfy sleeping cots. Both experiences gave us a taste of what life was like for early traders and Indigenous communities.
Additional options at the site include the somewhat snazzy Trapline cabins along the riverbank, which sleep six people with a double pull-out bed and four sleeping mats in the loft. They come equipped with an outdoor grill, cookware, utensils, a mini fridge, an induction burner, a microwave, and lighting. There are also RV and tent camping sites available.
If you don’t have your own gear, you can rent a fully equipped camping kit, complete with a six-person tent (set up), sleeping pads, sleeping bags, a cooking stove with fuel, and a lantern. The Métis tents and Trapline Cabins are very popular and should be reserved well in advance.
Indigenous Culture & Métis Heritage
The historic site showcases the significant role of Indigenous Peoples in the fur trade, particularly the Blackfoot, Stoney Nakoda and Métis. Visitors hear stories from interpreters and learn about traditional Indigenous skills such as hide tanning and beadwork.
The Métis Camp is especially engaging, with Red River carts and traditional crafts that offer a glimpse into Métis heritage. The kids had fun examining the various hides on display, eagerly guessing which animals they came from — including bison, beaver, deer, elk, moose, wolf, coyote, bear, lynx, bobcat and rabbit. Later, I asked the kids what hide they liked seeing the most, and the consensus was, of course, the bear.
Walk the Historic Trails
There are four interpretive trails that lead us through the grounds, each offering a unique perspective on the site’s past. The David Thompson Trail follows the old voyageur route along the North Saskatchewan River, with interpretive signs explaining the site’s history. I was particularly fascinated to see a map that shows how voyageurs made their way from Hudson Bay to Rocky Mountain House, navigating a vast network of rivers and trade routes — a testament to their resilience and the fur trade history.
The experience brought back memories of reading Newman’s book, which painted such a vivid picture of the challenges these early explorers faced.
The Chalifoux Trail, named after Métis hunter Jean-Baptiste Chalifoux, highlights the lives of Métis bison hunters. The Bison Trail explores the significance of bison to Indigenous and Métis cultures, while the Riverside Trail traces the vital trade route used by Indigenous nations, fur traders, and European explorers, offering scenic views along the river. There’s a small cemetery on the Riverside Trail, the final resting place of several individuals connected to the fur trade, including some who worked at the fort.
I found it a wonderful place to stop and ponder the determination and hardships faced during that era.
See the Bison Herd
The site also features a bison paddock where you can often get an up-close look at these majestic animals. We’ve been lucky to also see bison herds at Fort Whyte Alive in Winnipeg, Riding Mountain National Park in Manitoba, and Wanuskewin Heritage Park in Saskatoon — and this experience was unique in its own right.
Interactive Demonstrations & Costumed Interpreters
During peak season at Rocky Mountain House Historic Site, staff dress in period clothing and offer live demonstrations such as musket firing, flint knapping, and blacksmithing. My partner’s 11-year-old son was particularly fascinated by the blacksmith shop, where a wide variety of tools were on display.
There are a number of hands-on experiences: one of the most popular programs is Traditional Games, which teaches essential skills like observation, intuition, and hand-eye coordination. Advanced reservations are required for this and other programs. While I cleaned up the campsite and then went into town for food, my partner and the kids participated in a workshop, where they crafted their own fancy satchels.
Explore The Town of Rocky Mountain House, Alberta
It’s definitely worth taking a little time to discover the town of Rocky Mountain House itself. The charming community of approximately 8,000 people, just a 10-minute drive from the historic site of the same name, is not only rich in history but also offers a variety of activities.
It’s super convenient if you’re camping at the historic site, with a number of grocery stores, restaurants, and outdoor gear stores. There’s also a variety of lodging choices for those not staying at the site. Here are a few highlights to explore during your visit:
Walk of History
This free self-guided tour features 20 interpretive nodes along Main Street and the downtown area, each illustrating significant historical events and figures that have shaped the community. You can pick up a map of the walk and a puzzle that you can complete along the way at the Visitor Information Centre. One of the stops explains how a tornado once destroyed much of Main Street. It was a fun and interesting thing to do while strolling around the central part of town.
Helen Hunley Park
Located near the Rocky Mountain House Visitor Information Centre, this lovely green space features a 5.6-kilometre paved multipurpose trail popular with walkers, runners, cyclists, and rollerbladers. The park is named in honour of Wilma Helen Hunley, Alberta’s first female Lieutenant Governor (1985–1991);
Rocky Museum
Located adjacent to the park, the Rocky Museum offers a glimpse into the area’s pioneer and settler history. Highlights include the 1911 Meadows Forestry Cabin, a restored 1923 one-room schoolhouse, a recreated general store, and a working 1916 Amherst player piano.
Visitors can explore a barbed wire collection, military exhibits, and gardens with picnic areas. Interactive features include scavenger hunts, craft demos by an artist-in-residence, and a gift shop with locally made and Indigenous items.
Copper Creek Café
I haven’t yet figured out how to make lattes while camping, but that’s okay. I’m always on the hunt for a local haunt, and Copper Creek Café did not disappoint. The café has a great selection of food, but the pies are to die for. I indulged in a fantastic slice of banana cream pie and took a few pieces back to the site for my partner and the kids.
Spend Some Time in the Mountains
While we’ve now firmly established that Rocky Mountain House isn’t in the Rocky Mountains, it’s close enough to make them part of your Rocky Mountain House itinerary. In fact, one of the world’s most scenic drives — the Icefields Parkway — is just up the road. And here’s the kicker: the road to that road is equally impressive and might just be one of Canada’s best-kept secrets.
Here are a few suggestions for some mountain magic, all easily done as day trips from your base in RMH:
Explore the West
Named after the famed explorer, the David Thompson Highway was another pleasant surprise. I had not heard of the highway prior to our visit, but the road is an absolutely gorgeous gateway to the Rockies. The highway begins east of Red Deer and stretches 318 kilometres west to Saskatchewan River Crossing, where it connects with the legendary Icefields Parkway.
From Rocky Mountain House, it’s a 177-kilometre drive to the Crossing — and it’s a beauty, folks.
You’ll enter the mountains about 100 kilometres west of Rocky Mountain House, but the scenery starts shifting well before that. The route winds past rolling hills and wide-open ranchland before gradually giving way to mountain peaks and glacier-fed rivers. Along the way, there are several rewarding stops worth building into your day.
First up is Nordegg, a quirky little mountain outpost that was once a coal-mining hub and now draws outdoor enthusiasts with its mix of history, scenery, and adrenaline adventures. You can explore the Brazeau Collieries historic site if industrial heritage is your thing, or just fuel up at the local café before hitting the trails. Nordegg is also home to the Rockies’ first via ferrata — a guided climbing route that scales a 600-foot cliff with jaw-dropping views over Abraham Lake, Alberta’s largest and most beautiful man-made lake.
Just beyond Nordegg lies Abraham Lake, created in 1972 with the construction of the Bighorn Dam on the North Saskatchewan River. Built for hydroelectric power generation by Alberta’s then-electric utility, the lake helps regulate river flow and produce renewable energy. I was absolutely shocked by how blue the water was — a brilliant, almost surreal shade that made us pull over just to admire it for a while. In winter, the lake is famous for its photogenic methane ice bubbles trapped beneath the frozen surface.
A little further west, a short hike takes you to Siffleur Falls, a scenic cascade reached via a suspension bridge and a gentle forest trail — a perfect leg-stretcher before continuing your drive into the heart of the Rockies.
Icefields Parkway
Often called one of the most beautiful drives on the planet, this 232-kilometre stretch of double-lane highway links Lake Louise with Jasper. Its path winds along the Continental Divide through sweeping valleys and past towering peaks, glaciers and gorgeous turquoise lakes. The road is packed with breathtaking moments at every turn, with plenty of rewarding stops along the way.
What makes it even more remarkable is that it was built during the Great Depression as a make-work project, with construction starting in 1931 and completed in 1940. Armed with little more than picks, shovels, and wheelbarrows, workers carved the route through some of the most rugged terrain in the Rockies. Originally a gravel road, it wasn’t fully paved until the 1960s.
I’ve driven the Icefields Parkway many times — and trust me, it never gets old. Best of all, the drive from the campground at Rocky Mountain House to Saskatchewan River Crossing (where the Parkway begins) is only 177 km.
Lots of Lakes
Hang a left at Saskatchewan River Crossing and you’re heading south on the Icefields Parkway toward Lake Louise. About 38 km down the road, your first scenic stop is Bow Lake, with its stunning turquoise waters framed by the soaring Rockies. Just before the lake, be sure to pull over at the Crowfoot Glacier viewpoint — a quick and rewarding roadside photo op.
A little farther along — about seven km — is Peyto Lake, a brilliant blue gem shaped like a wolf’s head and perched at a higher elevation. It’s a fantastic alternative to the crowds at Lake Louise. We spent a good chunk of time here: far fewer people, free parking, and the viewpoint is only about a 10-minute walk from the lot. Below the lookout, a network of trails winds through the forest, offering peaceful views of the lake and surrounding mountains.
Despite knowing Lake Louise would be busy — it was mid-July — we pressed on. It’s just 42 km from Peyto Lake. If you plan ahead, Parks Canada runs a shuttle system to manage crowds. They’re affordable and efficient, but book early as tickets sell out fast. We lucked out with a parking spot! Though the area can feel like “Instagram Alley” at first, take the Lakeshore Trail for a peaceful, scenic experience, offering one of the best views of Lake Louise and the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
Hang a Right
Our visit to the area around Rocky Mountain House was in July 2024, when the northern portion of the Icefields Parkway was temporarily closed due to the devastating wildfires in Jasper National Park. The fires had a significant impact, especially in the town of Jasper, where around 30 percent of buildings were damaged. Fortunately, critical infrastructure was preserved, and the town has been working hard to recover and is again open to tourists.
Heading north on the Parkway is one of the most scenic and rewarding parts of the drive. About 55 km from Saskatchewan River Crossing, the Columbia Icefield is a must-stop. During a previous visit, I had the unforgettable experience of taking a ride on the Ice Explorer, which drives you right onto the Athabasca Glacier.
You can also enjoy spectacular views from the Glacier Skywalk, a glass-floored platform that juts out over the Sunwapta Valley, offering dizzying vistas (though I’ll admit, I left that thrill to braver souls than me). The glacier experience itself is unforgettable. Riding a massive buggy to the icefield and then walking on an ancient glacier was, pardon the pun, incredibly cool. And drinking fresh glacial water straight from its source was as refreshing as it gets.
Further north, you’ll reach Athabasca Falls, one of the most powerful waterfalls in the Rockies. It’s an easy stop with short trails and viewing platforms offering incredible views of the falls crashing through a narrow canyon.
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Steve spent 34 years as a sports and travel journalist at the Winnipeg Free Press and now pursues his passion for adventure travel. His stories have chronicled adventures like hiking around the world.Steve now focuses his attention on cycle tourism, and whether on two wheels or two feet, Steve’s stories are targeted to active travellers who are looking for adventure, great food and cultural experiences.