Quebec’s Eastern Townships offer a perfect blend of scenic towns, starry skies, relaxing spa retreats, and exceptional gastronomic experiences. Join Maureen Littlejohn as she explores the best this charming region has to offer in terms of wellness and nature activities.
A little southeast of Montreal, Quebec’s Eastern Townships is a region of hills and valleys, artisanal food, quirky inns, and picturesque towns that had been calling to me. Plus, I knew that at night, it was draped in the velvety black expanse of the Mount Megantic Dark Sky Reserve and sparkled with stars.
This past spring, I headed out not only to enjoy the surrounding region’s warm hospitality but also to catch a once-in-a-lifetime event for me—the total eclipse of the sun.
The communities of Lake Megantic, Sherbrooke, and Bromont were on my travel itinerary, as well as some of the towns and areas in between.
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Quebec’s Eastern Townships: Location and History
Where are the Eastern Townships? They cover a large swathe of southeastern Quebec. Nine territories and 114 municipalities are stretched out over 184,000 square kilometres. The region has four national parks, over 30 wineries and cideries, and four major ski resorts. Its borders connect with Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, among other fun facts about the province.
Back in the late 1700s, after the American Revolution, United Empire Loyalists came up and resettled in the area (as well as in parts of Nova Scotia and Ontario). As British sympathizers, the Loyalists faced persecution in the United States and wanted to remain loyal to the Crown. That’s why they were drawn to the fledgling British colony that eventually became Canada.
These days, the majority of the population is proudly Francophone, but remnants of the Loyalist settlements remain. Some towns have names with British origins, such as Sutton, Orford, and North Hatley. But others have Francophone names such as Lac-Brome (formerly Knowlton).
One great thing about Quebec’s Eastern Townships is that even if your knowledge of French is rudimentary like mine, you’ll get along. People appreciate it when you make an effort, but much of the population is bilingual.
Scanning the Skies of Quebec
I was there with a couple of other journalists primarily to see the solar eclipse. Mont Megantic Dark Sky Reserve was in the Path of Totality, one of the best places in Canada to watch it.
The night before the eclipse, we attended a star gazing and photography workshop with Zenderfull, a night sky operation run by Samer Hobeika within the Dark Sky Reserve at the foot of Mount Megantic. Samer told us he became fascinated with night photography during his nightclubbing years.
From shooting portraits of patrons, he gradually learned the nuances of capturing the brightest stars of all…those in the skies above. Samer, who is also a software engineer, came to Quebec in 2015 from Lebanon to join his brother and explore opportunities for his unique skillset.
“My market for Zenderfull is from Montreal. The business started in 2020. COVID-19 worked well for me. People were stuck at home and wanted to get out and do something. So I brought them out here to see the night sky.”
A member of the International Dark Sky Association, Samer offers weekend workshops that include accommodation in his large house, meals, and activities such as an introduction to astronomy and photography. A popular session is outdoor light painting, which involves a camera capturing the colours generated by a sabre-like light rod that Samer moves around his group. The results? A mind-blowing psychedelic portrait.
Operating year-round, Zenderfull draws lots of participants in summer for camping, yoga, meditation, and paddleboard sessions.
Understanding Astronomy Events at ASTROlab
The next day, we lucked out with the weather—clear blue sky, sunny and warm. We were seated in a viewing area outside the ASTROlab, an astronomy activity centre in the heart of Mount Megantic Dark Sky Reserve. Donning my special protective glasses, I watched the moon slowly pass the sun. The temperature dropped, and the light faded.
The crowd of 2,500 around me was quiet, then we all burst into cheers as the sun re-emerged. Tears were running down my cheeks. I was realizing just how small we humans are and how dependent we are on the sun… and the health of this little planet.
“Mount Megantic is a symbol of astronomy in Quebec,” Sebastien Giguere, ASTROlab’s scientific coordinator and head of education, explained to our group.
“This was a multi-sensorial show. It was a profoundly human feeling to connect with the cosmos. We witnessed the mystery and miracle of life.”
I’d recommend exploring the ASTROlab, even without an eclipse. Daytime activities include tours, films, and virtual reality experiences. The observatory, located at the top of the mountain, is open every day in summer. Be warned, the tour is only in French, but it is included with your admission to the ASTROlab. Make sure to book in advance by calling ahead.
Soak Away Those Knots at One of These Spas
Estello Suites & Spa
Newly opened in the spring of 2024, Estello Suites & Spa is located on Lake Megantic. It’s a handy place to stay when you visit the ASTROlab, and it’s a few kilometres outside the town of Lake Megantic. Breakfast was included and was delivered straight to my room in the morning. The night before, I chose between a croissant and fruit salad or a boiled egg with toast and a berry smoothie. It was a delicious way to start the day.
For me, the star attraction at this inn was the thermal spa. Walking down to the garden level, wrapped in the provided robe, I soaked in one of three hot pools, plunged in a cold pool, sweated in a sauna, then relaxed indoors in the massage chair. It was interesting to note that the spa was also open to non-guests who paid a day rate.
Balnea Spa & Réserve Thermale
Balnea Spa & Réserve Thermale near the city of Bromont offered treatments and massages, but the main draw was the outdoor thermal experience. An infinity pool overlooked the lake, plus the terraced grounds offered a cold plunge waterfall and other pools.
Inside I found sauna rooms and steam rooms. Between the hot and cold immersions, I rested in indoor lounge areas, but you can also lay outdoors in front of fire pits. If you get hungry amidst all this water therapy, you can head into the spa’s Lumami restaurant or the lounge counter to snack on healthy dishes, some featuring produce from the spa garden.
More Exciting Experiences in Quebec’s Eastern Townships
Get Your Coffee On
At Géogène Micro-Roaster in Sherbrooke, Anselme Pher took our group through a blind coffee tasting. It was eye-opening.
“Taste and smell don’t always align,” he explained.
We were given four small cups and started by sniffing ground beans. We poked our noses at the crust formed when hot water was poured on the grounds. Finally, we tasted the finished product. Body, sweetness, bitterness, and acidity were all compared.
In the end, I favoured and was happy to take home a package of beans to enjoy on lazy Sunday mornings. The shop does monthly tasting sessions, called “cupping”, that are free and open to the public. Check their website for dates.
Indulge in Poutine Extraordinare at Musi-Café
The Musi-Café in the town of Lake Megantic was a resilient beacon of hope and a delicious place to dig into some poutine. Every restaurant in the area has a signature poutine—the Musi-Café poutine had a combination of three cheeses, including Boursin, topped with rich brown gravy.
Why is it a beacon of hope? Lake Magantic was the site of the horrific train explosion of 2013 when a runaway boxcar filled with toxic chemicals smashed into the middle of town and exploded, killing 47 people. Many of these folks were in a bar that burned to the ground. It was where the Musi-Café now stands.
Not only was I glad to support the community’s rejuvenation, but I’d highly recommend the food at Musi-Café. And it was packed with locals. Always a good sign.
Beer Meets Fish & Chips
One of 30 microbreweries in the Eastern Townships, the Siboire Dépot Microbrewery has five locations in the region. The one I visited was in Sherbrooke’s former train station, built in 1890.
Christophe Darveau, the restaurant/brewery’s director, gave me a little background. “One of the owners of the operation is a big cycling enthusiast. That’s why you’ll see so many bike frames above the bar.” He also pointed out that they received official certification from the National Federation of Fish Friers in England in 2012.
Of course, I had to try not only the beer, but also the fish and chips. They were a winning combination.
Take a Walk in Sherbrooke
Greeter Claudette Ménard met us for coffee at Faro, a hopping café popular with university students. Leading us down the main street, we paused at La Maison Du Cinéma, built in 1910. The Art Deco structure now houses 16 small theatres and shows French-speaking films.
We also popped into the Granada Theatre, built in 1929. Once a cinema, it now showcases live concerts. “It’s the only atmospheric theatre left in Quebec,” explained Claudette.
Another high point was looking down at where the Magog River met the St. Francis River. The frothy storm of white water, Claudette explained, propelled the Frontenac Power Station. “Built in 1888, it is the oldest operational hydroelectric plant in Quebec.”
Float to Sleep at Bora Boreal
At Bora Boreal, near the community of Bury, I fell asleep in luxe sustainable fashion. Eight floating accommodations were moored along the shore of Lake Batley.
Six were MiniBoras that slept four, and two were VillaBoras that slept six. They all had kitchens with mini-fridges and cupboards filled with crockery, cookware, and utensils. I was able to cook my dinner on my unit’s BBQ and then snuggle up to a wood-burning fire inside.
A warning for those who need to get up at night—these houseboat-style accommodations have compost toilets that can be challenging to get to from the loft bedroom. However, there are regular facilities on land in the communal pavilion, including hot showers. Activities at the site included paddling, hiking, swimming (in summer), and soaking in a hot tub.
Savour Quebec’s Saintly Cheeses
At Saint-Benoit-du-Lac Abbey, which is open to the public, the Benedictine monks were busy. Not only were they attending mass, but they were also making cider, cheese, and other goodies.
We watched a video covering the history of the Abbey. I loved learning about the architecture of this stately building, but my favorite activity was visiting the store, where I bought an assortment of delicious cheeses, including Smoked Fontina, Brother Jacques, and The Monk. Tours are available for a fee from late June to the end of August.
Try a Babar Lunch
Finding mouth-watering Middle Eastern cuisine in the heart of Vieux-Bromont was a welcome surprise. The mezze platters at Babar were amazing and perfect for sharing for lunch.
Check Out the Wine Route and Get Some Maple Syrup at a Sugar Shack
A stop at one of the region’s sugar shacks, Cabane du Pic-Bois, for some maple syrup was essential. Owner André Pollender, former president of the Quebec Federation of Maple Syrup, kindly gave us a tour of the property. In addition, he doled out tastes of his superb product. I was there at the end of Sugar Shack season and scooped some heavenly maple taffy.
Vignoble Picbois Winery is also on the property. The vines were planted only in the past five years, but some of their vintages showed promise. The Cuvée Seduction 2023, an off-dry floral muscat, was one and also my souvenir of choice.
Farewell at Hotel Chateau Bromont
Our last night in the region was spent at Hotel Chateau Bromont. The hotel offered us a great Bed and Breakfast package with a full breakfast and use of the hot tubs on the terrace. Plus, there was an indoor pool and fitness room. It felt good to move my body a bit after all the good eating I’d been doing.
Dinner was a charcuterie board featuring Quebec cured meats and artisanal cheeses at the hotel’s 4 Canards restaurant. Saying farewell to the region, we raised our glasses and shared a toast.
À votre santé Eastern Townships.
Disclosure: Maureen Littlejohn was hosted as media for this trip. All opinions remain her own.
Maureen Littlejohn is a curious Sagittarius who loves to delve into the cultures, traditions and beauty of countries around the world. An award-winning travel journalist, she has worked in Canada, the United States, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland), Ghana, and Vietnam. Currently based in Toronto, she is executive editor of Culture Magazin (no e), a lifestyle/food/travel publication that focuses on “East Meets West” and caters to the Vietnamese diaspora. She is also a prolific freelance writer and her articles have appeared in outlets including CNN Global Travel, National Geographic, The Globe and Mail, Toronto Star, Panoram Italia, USA Today’s 10 Best, National Parks Traveler, and Hotel-Scoop.com. Her beat includes culture, history, food/beverage, soft adventure, and wellness. She is on the board of SATW (Society of American Travel Writers), and the World Food Travel Association, and is a member of the Travel Media Association of Canada (TMAC). You can learn more about her on her site.