The Leaf in Assiniboine Park, Winnipeg: A Top Canadian Horticultural & Architectural Attraction

The Leaf, a new world-class attraction at Winnipeg’s Assiniboine Park, is home to the tallest indoor waterfall in Canada and tropical butterfly biomes, among many different spaces. Hans Tammemagi walks you through how to make the most of your visit to this botanical paradise in Manitoba’s capital.

The Leaf Assiniboine Park
The Leaf. Image Credit: Winnipeg Tourism

The 1,100-acre Assiniboine Park has been a major focus for Winnipeggers since its inception more than 100 years ago, so I was looking forward to exploring it. This 80-acre Manitoba Zoo, best known for its gigantic but cute polar bears, drew me. I wanted to pirouette on the dance floor of the historic pavilion, a focus for early social life. I could imagine the tooting whistle and the chatter of many young engineers riding the miniature railway. And there is much more to delight in: the dramatic plays at the Lyric outdoor theatre, the aromas of brilliant flowers in numerous gardens, and the winding trails in the vast 700-acre forest. 

The LEAF: A New Attraction at Assiniboine Park

Most exciting, however, is the Leaf, a new attraction that opened in Winnipeg in 2022 and is considered the most significant horticultural development in Canada in the past quarter century. As Laura Cabak, the Director of Communications & Public Relations for the Assiniboine Park Conservancy, who operates the Park, explained, “People are flocking to this inspirational site. In our first year of operation (2023), we saw over 375,000 visitors, greatly exceeding our expectations.”

She explained that the Leaf contains an incredible diversity of more than 12,000 plants set in a manicured 30 acres, but the best part, she said, is the main building (90,000 square feet over three floors) topped by a spectacular glass roof.

The Leaf Assiniboine Park Waterfall Tropical Biome
Tropical Waterfall. Image credit: Hans Tammemagi

Walking toward the Leaf building, I was impressed by its futuristic architecture. Thick steel guy ropes hold up an unusual spiral of girders supporting an immense glass roof. Our guide said, “The unique spiral design was inspired by the Fibonacci sequence (each number is the sum of the two previous ones), which is common in nature. In fact, the Leaf is very environmentally friendly and has received LEED silver certification.”

The Biomes at the Leaf

Stepping into the Tropical Biome (one of the four distinct biomes within the Leaf), I was enveloped in boreal forest greenery and mist from Canada’s tallest indoor waterfall, cascading downward for 60 feet. Immersed in wonderful warmth and humidity like a jungle, I inspected the luxurious growth of coffee, cocoa, coconut palm, ginger, bamboo, ferns, and more.

The plants, busy adding oxygen to the air, ignored me. “Amazing having a tropical paradise in Winnipeg,” our guide said, “and it’s especially enjoyable in the middle of winter. Some of the plants.” she added, “are incredibly rare, including three Wollemi pines — also known as dinosaur trees. They are one of the most endangered plants on the planet, and we are honoured to have them here.”

Next, we entered the Mediterranean Biome, home to plants like olives, figs, walnuts and grapes from climatic zones characterized by moist, cool winters and hot, dry summers, such as Greece, Italy, South Africa, Australia, Chile and California. These regions are known for their superb fruits, fine wines and abundant crops. Here, the focus is to showcase the breathtaking beauty — and tastes — that only nature can achieve. I was already daydreaming about the on-site restaurant.

In the third biome, the Display House, the open space was dominated by a 14-foot-tall vertical wall covered in rubber trees, spider plants, and more — about 4,000 plants in total — arranged in a dramatic wave pattern. I felt like surfing in the green shrubbery. The Display House celebrates the art of horticulture with rotating dynamic floral arrangements, exploring seasonal and global themes. 

The Leaf Assiniboine Park Malachite butterfly Credit Salvador Maniquiz
Malachite butterfly at The Leaf. Image credit: Salvador Maniquiz

An elevator carried us up six stories beside the tall misting waterfall. I was soaring above the sea of plant life flourishing far below. We entered the Butterfly Garden biome, which was magical with butterflies — splashes of colour — flitting among lush plants. Visitors were attempting to sneak up on them to take photos, usually with little luck. A favourite target was the blue morpho from Costa Rica, which was plain and stick-like until it opened its wings and transformed into a stunning, bright cobalt blue. All too soon, we had to leave, but not before Leaf staff conducted a brief search to ensure we didn’t inadvertently carry any little flappers outside.

The Leaf’s Outdoor Gardens

Our guide led us out of the building, saying, “There is much to see in the 30 acres of special gardens that form part of Leaf.” We started at the Indigenous Peoples Garden, which celebrates Indigenous cultures and their deep philosophical respect for nature. At the water node, a circle of carved cedar spheres represents the thirteen-moon calendar, commonly used in Indigenous societies. It was a quiet place for reflection. The Residential School Totem Pole, one of the few totems in the prairies, towered high over the garden. 

The Leaf Assiniboine Park Residential School Totem Pole
Residential School Totem Pole. Image credit: Hans Tammemagi

The Kitchen Garden grows a variety of vegetables, fruits, herbs, and other edible plants. The area includes a variety of themed garden beds with rotating crops, an arbour, an outdoor oven, and various greenhouses. I couldn’t wait to try some of the organic produce at Gather, the on-site restaurant.

Colourful, aromatic and tactile plant species and a hill-like topographical feature replete with tall grasses graced the Sensory Garden. I enjoyed interacting with nature through four of my five senses.

Artfully laid out, the outdoor gardens also include the Seasonal Garden, which displays perennial plants that peak at different times throughout the spring, summer, and fall, showcasing all four seasons. 

At the Performance Garden, an outdoor stage faces a gently tiered and landscaped seating area. Empty now, I could imagine the crowds when the site hosts the Garden Concerts at The Leaf

We finished the outdoor tour by visiting the Grove, an arboretum highlighting the majesty of trees as well as demonstrating their simple beauty and calming nature. It worked, for I felt a calming, soothing aura.

Gather Restaurant: One of the Best in the City

Finally, we headed to the Gather Craft Kitchen & Bar, named the city’s best new restaurant in 2023 by Ciao! Magazine. How can you not love dishes that use fresh, organic plants, nuts and flowers grown right on-site? I savoured the Coconut Korma Curry accompanied by sweet pepper chutney, charred cauliflower, sweet potato, jasmine rice, toasted cashew and yogurt. 

The Leaf Assiniboine Park Main Pillar
Main Pillar. Image credit: Hans Tammemagi

Replete with excellent cuisine and sipping a Northern Lights cocktail shimmering with smoke, I thought about this amazingly diverse horticultural centre. I learned firsthand that the Leaf is world-class and explores the human connection with plants and the role plants play in shaping our communities and cultures.  All Canadians should be proud of the Leaf.

Hans Tammemagi was hosted as media on his trip to the Leaf. All opinions expressed in this article are completely his own.

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