Cruising the Northwest Passage: Wildlife and Wilderness at the Top of the World

Cruising the Northwest Passage through one of Canada’s most legendary and remote Arctic routes reveals our country’s breathtaking northern landscapes, abundant wildlife, and rich Inuit culture. In this article, author Melody Wren shares what travellers can expect to experience on a 17-day expedition cruise through the Northwest Passage with Adventure Canada.

cruising the northwest passage Adventure Canada Ocean Endeavour
Adventure Canada Ocean Adventure. Photo credit: Melody Wren

After a charter flight from Toronto Pearson Airport, we arrived at the port in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, to join 191 other passengers for 17 days on an expedition ship through Canada’s Northwest Passage with Adventure Canada.

What is the Northwest Passage?

The Northwest Passage includes several sea routes that branch around the many islands between the Davis Strait and the Bering Sea. It is ice-locked for most of the year and has no deep-sea ports or stopping-off points. Only four percent of these waters are fully charted, and the quickly fluctuating weather changes the ice formations overnight, with travel delays not uncommon.

The Northwest Passage has more polar bears than humans – and no trees. We hiked through starkly beautiful tundra and travelled in inflatable zodiacs around icebergs with close-ups of arctic wildlife, including polar bears, muskox, arctic hare, humpback whales and pods of beluga whales. It was evident from the beginning that the ice was the main feature of the journey, with the ship’s expedition leader, John Blyth, keeping a constant eye on satellite images of the flow and direction.

Cruising Greenland on our Northwest Passage Cruise

cruising the northwest passage. Sisimiut
Sisimiut. Photo credit: Melody Wren

As we cruised up the West coast of Greenland, we disembarked to hike through the rolling hills of Sisimiut, dotted with jellybean-coloured houses: red for churches and schools, yellow for hospitals. The town is just above the Arctic Circle, and as it’s owned by Denmark, the shops have a European feel.  Danish Kroner is the local currency, and they speak Greenlandic. Over 80% of the population are Inuit.

A favourite local souvenir is Muskox wool or hats made from it, as it is eight times warmer than lamb’s wool and completely water resistant. When you pass a local in the street, it is polite to make eye contact, and if they raise their eyebrows, it’s a way of saying hello.  However, if they wiggle their eyebrows twice, they are flirting. 

Hiking the Northern Canada Fjords

Another early morning, we arrived by zodiac to Akuliarusinnguaq or Nordre Isortoq.  We hiked in small groups around the small beautiful fjord over rocks and hills through colourful tundra. The higher we climbed, the more majestic the scenery was with hills, blackberries and blueberries. Our guides pointed out caribou scat, several huge shed antlers, and dwarf fireweed, the tiny purple national flower of Greenland.

We heard tales about the local nomadic people who lived off the land fishing and hunting caribou, disappearing when hikers came on their land, earning them the local name “ghosts.” We walked alongside friends Ivik and Johannes, delightful Greenlandic cultural advisors who shared details of their people and land. Back on board, we listened to a fascinating talk by Aleqa, the first female Prime Minister of Greenland, who spoke with pride about her country and people. 

Touring the Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier and Hiking Disko Island

The following day, we set off for Ilulissat, the iceberg capital of the world, which was most evident on a boat tour of the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier as it entered the sea. Icebergs of all shapes and shades of white were on display. But the outing was harrowing, with 3-metre waves rocking the small boat violently from side to side.  I asked for a reminder of where the lifejackets were and promptly fell off my seat.   After our tour, the rest of the day in Ilulissat was cancelled as we had to return to the ship while it was safe to return by Zodiac.  

cruising the northwest passage cliffs from the zodiac
Cliffs from the Zodiac. Photo Credit: Melody Wren

The next morning, we took zodiacs to Disko Island, where we hiked under bright blue skies. Experts, including geologists, anthropologists, and cultural advisors, were spread throughout the island, sharing information.

I spent time with Aliqa Hammond, the first female PM for Greenland, who told stories and shared information about Greenland. We learned about the flora and fauna of Disko, which are abundant because of volcanic ashes. Inuit cultural advisor Aka called us over to show us a nomad’s fox trap made of stones. 

Crossing the Davis Straight to Nunavut

Overnight, we crossed the Davis Straight into Canadian waters and to Mittimatalik (Pond Inlet), Nunavut. Local guide Kelly Akpaleeapik told us about the small community of 1700 people, established in 1951 on the 400 square-mile Baffin Island—bigger than Newfoundland. Kelly enjoys promoting his island, saying, “Education is better than assumptions.”

Food is very expensive as it is all shipped in. A 2-L carton of milk costs $40-$50, and a can of pop is $5.  In the community centre, locals danced and performed throat singing. The viewpoint above the town showed the beautiful bay below. 

On the way back, I walked with local guide Mary Beth Katsak, a tiny, sweet local woman aged 23 with five small children, one on her back. As we walked, she spoke proudly of the two schools, the local Arctic College, the nursing station, the fire hall, the community centre and the visitor center for the 26 northwest passage cruises that visit annually. 

cruising the northwest passage Mary Beth Katsak
Mary Beth Katsak. Photo credit: Melody Wren

Exploring the Canadian Arctic

Our next stop was the first RCMP outpost on the south coast of Devon Island, in Nunavut. The abandoned building looks out to sea as if dropped there to watch over the opening to Lancaster Sound and the Northwest Passage. It is a desolate but starkly beautiful spot, the soft colour of the weathered wooden outpost gently merging with the textured surrounding landscape.

Three RCMP officers were sent to the island to establish sovereignty in Canada in 1924. There was no radio contact at that time, and only one ship arrived annually to drop off provisions and share news updates. At 7 degrees above the Arctic Circle, there were many months of darkness. They had a team of dogs, but no one to arrest, so they started patrolling around the island for something to do. 

Within three years, two of them were dead, one having killed himself and the other was listed as by “misadventure while Walrus hunting,” but there is much speculation in the historical writings. We climbed to the top of a hill to see the Northernmost cemetery in Canada, which had two headstones in a forlorn and haunting setting. 

cruising the northwest passage walruses
Walruses. Photo credit: Jeff Thomason

Heading Even Further North

Bright sunshine and a clear blue sky took us to Cuming Inlet. At 74.9°, this was the furthest North we had travelled yet. Across the Inlet were two polar bears, and as we hiked up the hill, scrambling over rocks and streams, telescopic lenses were set up on tripods to give us a closer look. Recent scat and clumps of hair indicated herds of muskox and enormous polar bear footprints were next to tiny arctic fox footprints.

Majestic icebergs kept us company as we hiked further up steep hills toward the stately mountains, made more beautiful with the morning sun.  Many of us were mesmerized by ice-covered puddles forming artistic-looking patterns. Eager to see more wildlife, the ship moved closer to the shore so we could see the huddle of walruses and, beyond them, groups of frolicking harp seals. 

Wildlife Sightings in Port Leopold

Our departure time to Port Leopold was considerably delayed by a polar bear on the landing site where we were to be taken.  It seemed like a positive, and it sure was, as it ended up being a multi-bear day at the foot of cliffs so high, they are beyond the thesaurus to describe. 

Behind us were incredible icebergs with unusual shapes and colours that wouldn’t look out of place in an art gallery. Cruising in zodiacs along the cliffs holding thousands of birds, many circling overhead. When we asked our zodiac group of ten to be silent, the racket of the birds was unbelievable, each with a unique call. The most common was the thick‐billed murre, of which there are up to 100,00 pairs, and in the summer, the cliffs are home to one-quarter of a million birds.

cruising the northwest passage polar bears
Polar bears. Photo credit: Melody Wren

Cathedral spires on the cliffs completed the picture.  Another polar bear was sighted, and we edged to where she was. Looking tiny beside the majesty of the cliffs, she paced up and down, suddenly launched into a run, and grabbed one of the innocent birds nearby for a quick snack.

Following in the Footsteps of the Franklin Expedition

Continuing the next day, we sailed to Beechey Island, admittedly one of the islands I was most looking forward to exploring. It is a speck on a map, but one of the most important and sombre historical sites in the Arctic. The day brought bright sunshine, and as the sky kept changing from dark to dappled clouds to bursts of sunshine, I asked fellow passenger George Kourounis, self-confessed “sky sommelier” who described the sky as “Orographic clouds in a complicated sky.”

Seeing the three graves of Sir John Franklin’s crew members while hearing the history from our guides reminded us that in 1845, Sir Franklin took his expedition of 129 men and two ships into the Wellington Channel, with not one returning. In the fall of 2014, Canadian archeologists discovered remnants of HMS Erebus in the frozen waters and later HMS Terror. We hiked past the gravesites to the other end of the island, where armed guides had gone first to mark off a perimeter and paced it while we explored, as they kept watch for polar bears, muskox, caribou and any other animals that could compromise our safety.

Days at Sea in the Fabled Northwest Passage

Days at sea, whether planned or the result of changing weather, were never wasted. One afternoon, I took a watercolour workshop, which was taught by an onboard team member from the Yukon and a self-taught watercolour artist. Speakers on board lent richness to every excursion and day at sea, including an archeologist who spoke about the sacred artifacts we were witnessing on some of the islands, a marine biologist talking us through the marine life we could expect to see daily and native Inuk from different parts of Nunavut and Greenland. 

Each day, we learned a new Inuit word. Barney Bentall, a well-known Canadian musician, played music, gave a songwriting workshop and drove a zodiac when required. One afternoon I enrolled in an iPhone photography workshop with the onboard photographer, Jackie Matechuk, and within minutes I was learning tips and tricks I hadn’t known before.  

One afternoon, we celebrated the Northernmost Zenith point. I must admit that I had to ask for clarification, and the explanation given is that it’s the highest Northern point on the North American continent, and as we are connected to South America by the Darien Strait, we could actually walk to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego. 

Whale Watching on Prescott Island

After a lengthy hike on Prescott Island, we gathered on the beach to see pods of hundreds of belugas whales, many of them babies.  Emma, the onboard marine biologist, informed us that the babies are grey for up to their first 1-3 years, go lighter in colour, and then turn white. 

On a foggy and drizzly, the breakfast table debated whether we would be marooned on the ship for a second day in a row. Fortunately, we were able to get off onto Pasley Island.  Signs of wildlife were abundant, mainly bones and scat. 

We came across the skull and shoulder bone of a large bow whale. Aka Simonson, our resident archeologist, reckons it is from 4,000 years ago or more, and it would have been approximately 50 feet long. Dr. Marc St.-Onge, a geologist on board, talked us through the fascinating geology and tundra we hiked over. 

Autumnal tundra welcomed us to Port Hepworth, also named Tree River. After not being able to leave the ship the day before as planned, we were eager to hike and explore. Emma Sutherland, Arctic wildlife specialist, invited our group to “name the poo” based on everything we had learned in the previous two weeks. 

We successfully identified the scat of Arctic Hare and the large scat of muskox but not the smaller berry-shaped scat, which was also left by muskox.  Geologically, it was all about the stromatolites and fossils of bacterial colonies from a billion years ago. It was such a scenic place to explore, especially the rocks that captivated many of us; it was ideal for our last expedition ashore before leaving the ship the next day.

Our Last Day on our Northwest Passage Cruise

A woman in a red jacket stands against the backdrop of the Northwest Passage with an Adventure Canada Ship in the background
An armed permitter guard watches for polar bears – Photo credit: Jeff Thomason

On our last day, the ship anchored near Kugluktuk, Nunavut, and we boarded zodiacs for the last time.  The locals put on a show at the community center and set up handmade crafts on tables for us to buy as souvenirs, including many items made of muskox, polar bear and Arctic Hare. 

We were so far north that we got as close as 14 degrees to the North Pole. Parts of the trip will stay with me for a long time: the history, the phenomenal natural beauty, the singing of sea shanties, the sharing of knowledge from the experts, storytelling from the local Inuit, and the feeling of community on the ship contrasting with the bleak vastness of Canada’s north.

‘JR’ Raffan, the host of the cruise, said early on that “Adventure Canada is all about connecting people to the landscape, the history, wildlife, the locals, nature’s wonders and with remote places by many different methods including lectures, workshops, music, hikes, and conversations.” 

He was so fitting because even though there were 191 passengers, it felt like a village by the end of the voyage. The itinerary capitalized on our Arctic experience and was filled with storytelling, activities, and expert information sharing. It’s a voyage for those with a sense of adventure and spirit; it opens your mind and heart and will stay with you for a long time.

Things to Know Before You Go

Don’t wear camouflage if you need to be rescued.  A helicopter rescue pilot confirmed that to be seen, you need to wear bright colours.  

Artic dryness causes nosebleeds, so a small tube of Vaseline in your first aid kit does the trick of coating your nostrils before you hike in the dry Arctic.

Souvenirs are wonderful; however, before you pick up that fabulous piece of jewellery made from Narwhal tusk, check the banned list as Narwhal is on the endangered species list, and it is illegal to bring back into Canada. I picked up Muskox wool for a knitting friend but checked the list carefully to ensure it wouldn’t be confiscated as it was crazy expensive. 

For more information:  www.adventurecanada.co

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1 thoughts on “Cruising the Northwest Passage: Wildlife and Wilderness at the Top of the World

  1. Pra says:

    Thank you for sharing this mesmerizing journey through the Northwest Passage. Your experience beautifully captures the Arctic’s raw landscapes, vibrant Inuit culture, and remarkable wildlife. Reading about Greenland’s majestic fjords, the warm welcomes in remote communities, and awe-inspiring moments with nature is truly inspiring. What an unforgettable expedition!

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